Backsplash Tile Installation

A Backsplash That Stays Clean in a Humid Kitchen

A backsplash has an easy life compared to a countertop. Nothing gets chopped on it and nobody sets a hot pan against it. What it does get is steam from the range, splashes from the sink and, in a kitchen near the coast, a film of condensation on a cool morning. Tile shrugs all of that off. The joints between the tiles are what fail, so most of the decisions that matter in a backsplash are about the wall behind the tile and the material between it.

The Wall Comes First

Tile is only as flat as the surface it is set on. When an old backsplash comes off, the drywall behind it is usually torn up, and older homes in Olde Carlsbad sometimes have plaster or several layers of previous repairs underneath. We cut out damaged sections, patch with cement board where the wall will see the most water, flatten the surface and check it with a straightedge. Tile set on a wavy wall shows every high spot as a shadow once the under cabinet lights are on.

Behind the sink and the range we apply a liquid waterproofing membrane before tiling. It is inexpensive, and it keeps any water that finds its way through a joint from reaching the drywall.

Choosing the Tile

Porcelain is dense and absorbs almost nothing. It is the safe choice behind a sink in a damp room and comes in every size from small mosaics to large panels.

Glazed ceramic is softer than porcelain but the glaze sheds water well. Handmade style tiles with uneven edges look lovely and need wider joints, which means more grout to keep clean.

Natural stone mosaics such as marble and travertine absorb water and need sealing, grout included. They work, but they ask for the same upkeep as a stone countertop.

Glass is non porous and reflects light nicely in a darker kitchen, but it shows every flaw in the wall and every smear of thinset behind it, so it needs a very clean installation.

If you want no grout at all, a slab backsplash cut from the same material as your counter is the lowest maintenance option. It costs more in material and saves you from ever scrubbing a joint.

Grout, Caulk and the Line Where Things Crack

Larger tiles with narrow joints mean less grout. Standard cement grout is porous, and in a kitchen that stays damp it holds grease and discolors. We usually recommend a high performance grout that resists staining, or epoxy grout behind the range where grease is heaviest.

The joint where the backsplash meets the countertop should not be grouted at all. Counters and walls move slightly and independently, and a grouted corner there cracks. We run a color matched flexible sealant along that line and at inside corners instead. The same goes for the joint where tile meets the underside of the upper cabinets.

Outlets, Lighting and Details

Backsplash outlets need to sit flush with the finished tile face, so we add box extenders where needed. Kitchen countertop receptacles are required to be GFCI protected, and if yours are not, it is a good time to have an electrician correct that before the tile goes up. Under cabinet lighting is also easiest to add now, because the wiring can be run before the wall is closed.

Metal edge trims and outlet covers in thin plated finishes can pit in homes west of the freeway. We suggest finishes that hold up better near the water.

How Long It Takes

A typical backsplash takes two to four days: removal and wall prep, waterproofing and tile, then grout and sealant after the thinset has cured. If you are replacing counters too, the backsplash always goes on after the new top is set.

Call (442) 240-7515 to plan a backsplash for your Carlsbad kitchen.